Planning Your Tour of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is one of my favourite places in the world. In a single trip you can climb an ancient rock fortress, spot leopards and elephants on safari, ride a train through misty tea country and finish on a palm-fringed beach – all on an island smaller than Ireland.

The hardest part is deciding what to leave out. Here's my guide to the highlights, with the tips I share with customers when we plan their Sri Lanka holiday. Every one of our Sri Lanka tours is tailor-made, so think of this as a starting point. – Ian, Sri Lanka Specialist

When to go

Sri Lanka has two monsoons, so there's always somewhere with good weather. From December to April the west and south coasts and the hill country are at their best. From May to September it's the turn of the east coast. The Cultural Triangle in the middle of the island works for most of the year.

Wildlife

You don't need to book a dedicated wildlife holiday to see plenty of animals in Sri Lanka, but if wildlife is your passion there's a lot to build a trip around.

Yala National Park in the south-east is the headline act. It has one of the highest densities of leopards in the world, and your chances of a sighting on a morning and afternoon game drive are very good. There are some excellent tented camps on the edge of the park if you want to stay close to the action.

Minneriya National Park, close to Sigiriya, is one I include on almost every itinerary. In the dry season, hundreds of elephants gather on the grassy plains around the reservoir to feed – it's one of the best elephant-watching spots in Asia.

Wilpattu, in the north-west, is Sri Lanka's largest national park and much quieter than Yala. It's a good choice for leopards without the crowds, and it fits neatly alongside the Cultural Triangle. Jeep safaris are best between February and October.

Whale watching is best from Mirissa on the south coast between November and April, and from Trincomalee on the east coast between May and September.

Some of my favourite moments, though, are the unplanned ones – a porcupine waddling across the road, a giant monitor lizard appearing out of the undergrowth, or the birdlife in the Royal Botanical Gardens near Kandy.

Ancient cities and culture

Sri Lanka's ancient capitals sit in the centre-north of the island, in an area known as the Cultural Triangle. Most tours start here.

I usually base customers near Sigiriya, which has some lovely boutique hotels. Climb the rock fortress early, before the heat and the crowds, or for a quieter view of Sigiriya itself, head up neighbouring Pidurangala Rock at sunrise.

Polonnaruwa is best explored by bike. The ruins are spread out and shaded, and the highlights include beautifully carved moonstones and the giant reclining Buddha at Gal Vihara.

Anuradhapura feels very different. It's still a living centre of Buddhism, with pilgrims in white visiting its great stupas and the sacred Bodhi tree, alongside the remains of the ancient Sinhalese kingdom.

On the south coast, I always recommend at least one night inside the walls of Galle Fort. Once the day visitors leave, wandering its old colonial lanes after dark is pure magic.

Hill country and tea plantations

No trip is complete without time in Sri Lanka's hill country.

Kandy is the cultural capital, home to the Temple of the Tooth and a good place to catch a performance of traditional Kandyan dancing.

Nuwara Eliya is the heart of tea country, with its old planters' bungalows, colonial-era hotels and afternoon tea overlooking the plantations.

The train journey from Kandy to Ella is one of the most scenic rail trips in the world, winding through tea estates, waterfalls and mountain villages. I include it on almost every classic Sri Lanka tour – it's also a great chance to chat with local travellers.

Beaches

Sri Lanka has some of the best beaches in the Indian Ocean, but they vary a lot. Some resorts are quite built up, while others are blissfully quiet, so it's worth choosing carefully.

Mirissa on the south coast is one of my favourite beaches in Sri Lanka – relaxed, low-key and ideal for kicking back after a tour.

Tangalle, further east, has wide, empty beaches and some of my favourite boutique hotels in Sri Lanka.

Arugam Bay on the east coast is the place to head between May and September, when the weather is better on that side of the island. It combines easily with the Cultural Triangle.

Walking and active holidays

The hill country is perfect if you enjoy walking.

Adam's Peak is an unforgettable experience if you don't mind a very early start. You climb the pilgrims' trail in the dark to reach the summit for sunrise, and it really does feel like being on top of the island. The pilgrimage season runs from December to May.

Horton Plains National Park offers a beautiful circular walk across highland grassland to World's End, where the cliffs drop almost 900 metres. Go early, before the mist rolls in – it's also great for birdwatching.

Some of our most popular journeys

Classic Sri Lanka – 14 nights
Highlights of Sri Lanka – 12 nights
Easy Sri Lanka in Style – 10 nights
Wild Sri Lanka – 10 nights